Pisang Peak Climbing - 13 Days

How Difficult Is Pisang Peak Climbing?

Pisang Peak is a technically moderate climb at 6,091 m, not an easy follow-on from the Annapurna trek. It’s generally considered about a PD+ route, with the upper ridge becoming very steep (around 45 degrees) and needing fixed ropes, crampons, an ice axe and an ascender.

The difficulty is more in the combination of altitude and technique. High Camp will be at around 5,400 m, which leaves almost 700 m of ascent before the summit. At that height, even basic rope work slows down when you’re cold or tired.

We would consider Pisang to be of similar technical difficulty to Island Peak, and a little harder than Mera Peak, depending on snow and route conditions. A trained trekker may try it, but fitness alone is not sufficient. If you do not feel comfortable in crampons, with fixed ropes or when descending tired, Pisang Peak is not for you yet.

Pisang Peak Climbing Permits and Entry Requirements

Pisang Peak is not one of those mountains for which we would advise climbers to go to Manang and then get their permits sorted out. The route needs a permit for accessing the Annapurna Conservation Area as well as a permit for the 6,091 m summit expedition.

For foreign climbers, the seasonally applicable climbing fee on Pisang Peak is USD 250 during the spring season, USD 125 during the autumn season, and USD 70 during the winter and summer seasons. The regulations stipulate that the maximum size of a climbing team should be 15 persons, along with a USD 250 garbage deposit for the climbing permit.

The route also involves trekking through the Annapurna Conservation Area. The fee for entering the Annapurna Conservation Area is NPR 3,000 for foreign tourists and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals.

We consider these documents an integral part of the expedition, not something that will be checked after departure. Passport information, date, and group details should match; otherwise, there may be real problems, not just a typo, since ACAP permits are non-transferable and non-refundable.

Accordingly, a mountaineer should check three things before leaving Kathmandu:

• whether the climbing permission for Pisang Peak has been issued for the right season;
• whether there are no mistakes in the personal information on the ACAP entry permit;
• that the passport for which the permit was issued travels with them.

In case there is a mistake in one of these items, it is better to make corrections in Kathmandu than to find out about this at the route checkpoint or when submitting documents.

What Travel Insurance Do You Need for Pisang Peak?

A Pisang Peak trekking policy is not sufficient. The policy should include clauses for mountaineering up to 6,100-6,200 m, emergency medical services, and air evacuation from the remote mountainous region.

The height is critical. Pisang Peak is 6,091 m high, and a policy up to 5,000 m or 6,000 m may leave the climber uninsured when he starts his journey in the technical part of the route. Consequently, specialized Pisang operators usually demand insurance coverage up to 6,200 m.

Furthermore, Nepal Tourism Board recommends comprehensive insurance because of the high expenses of helicopter rescue operations and medical assistance. Also, one should consider whether the insurance policy covers the activity and not just the trip to Nepal.

The following would be verified prior to embarking on the journey:

• Insured maximum altitude: at least 6,200 m.
• Activity involved: mountaineering or mountain climbing and not merely trekking.
• Helicopter evacuation: insured explicitly.
• Medical aid in case of accidents: insured at high altitudes.
• Search and rescue: insured where applicable.
• Trip interruption/cancellation: can be useful in case of illness/disturbances rendering the climb impossible.
• Repatriation: insured in case treatment demands it.

It would also be vital to know the insurer’s emergency contacts and the policy number during the climb. The Nepal Tourism Board recommends leaving insurance details with the trekking agency in Kathmandu such that there is no delay in looking for the insurance in bags and emails during rescue missions.

The climber should make sure of his/her policy before paying the balance. If the insurer does not provide coverage for mountaineering above 6,000 m, then it is certainly not a minor technical issue; it is the wrong insurance for Pisang Peak.

Pisang Peak Altitude and Acclimatization Rules

The trek up to Pisang Peak is more of an altitude climb prior to becoming a technical climb. For this particular 13-day trek itinerary, the main sections are from Upper Pisang (3,300 m) → Base camp (4,380 m) → High camp (5,400 m) → summit (6,091 m). This is quite difficult for one to be lax during the acclimatization day. 

Why the Upper Pisang Acclimatization Day Matters

After 2,500 meters, the Nepalese Tourism Board suggests that one should increase their sleeping altitude by 300 to 500 meters every day and then take a rest day at every 1,000 meters climbed. It is impossible to follow such recommendations once the group leaves Upper Pisang, as both Base Camp and High Camp climb very quickly. Hence, the extra day in Upper Pisang is more like a day of risk mitigation rather than an idle day. One can be in good shape in Upper Pisang, but the extra day there cannot be skipped.

What We Watch Before Moving Higher

We observe headache, loss of appetite, nausea, vertigo, unusual fatigue, difficulty sleeping and breathlessness when resting. The Nepal Tourism Board assumes that any disease at an altitude of more than 2,500 m is potential AMS until it proves otherwise. The crucial point here is not “Are you still able to walk?” It is “Are you able to adapt properly for sleeping at an altitude of more than 1,000 m?”

When We Would Stop the Ascent

We will not make the climber climb up from Base Camp to High Camp just because, according to the schedule, it is on Day 8.

If the condition worsens, we need to stop ascending or even descend. A worsening headache, vomiting, loss of coordination, confusion of the mind, extreme fatigue and breathlessness are not symptoms to negotiate with. The summit can wait. The deteriorated climber cannot.

How Technical Is Pisang Peak Above High Camp?

It is only above High Camp, at an approximate elevation of 5,400 m, that Pisang Peak becomes a true mountaineering objective. The approach to the summit from here goes up the west ridge to 6,091 m and then turns up steep snow where fixed ropes are typically used. The technical difficulty of the specialist route description for Pisang is estimated at PD+ with a 45-degree angle of the upper slope towards the summit. This is important as the last 691 vertical meters cannot be compared to a typical trekking climb.

The Hard Part Starts After High Camp

Below High Camp, the main difficulty is mostly associated with altitude, loose rock, and prolonged climbing. Above this camp, footwork becomes more important. Climbers have to correctly use their crampons, maintain balance on steep snow, stay connected to the fixed line system, and move efficiently. Poor crampon placement at 5,800 m is more costly than the same problem during practice at Base Camp due to fatigue, cold, and lack of oxygen.

You Do Not Need to Be an Advanced Mountaineer

Pisang Peak is not Ama Dablam – you do not need rock or ice climbing skills to undertake the standard route.

However, we will not accept the term “it is only a trek with some ropes.”

The climber should know how to put on a harness, walk on crampons, climb an ascender on a fixed rope and safely descend. It is currently advised by all the Pisang operators that crampon experience or crampon practice is highly recommended before the summit attempt.

Why Fitness Alone Is Not Enough

Good legs can take someone up to the High Camp. They are not sufficient to make someone feel comfortable on a 40- 45-degree snow slope. This is why the preparation for the summit attempt is important. If the climber is still struggling with crampons, clips wrong or freezes on an exposed snow slope, the correct answer is not to push someone further because one can see the summit ahead. Technical skills do not have to be developed, but they have to be developed enough not to teach a climber crampons at 6000 meters altitude.

Climbing Equipment Required for Pisang Peak

In order to prevent misunderstandings before leaving, we have divided the Pisang Peak gear into two categories since mixing these gears will cause problems before leaving: Gear that the climber needs to bring, and group climbing gear that will be organized within the mountain operation.

The current package for climbing Pisang Peak already contains group climbing gear like ropes, ice screws and snow bars, high-altitude camping gear, and a climbing guide. It further mentions that personal climbing gear like crampons, harness and ice axe can be arranged by the company, whereas other trekking and climbing gear is the climber’s own responsibility.

What We Want You to Control Personally

First of all, the boots we will be using are something we would not like to take any risks with. One’s mountaineering boots should fit properly with the socks one plans to use for climbing. One’s crampons need to secure themselves well on the same boots. There is no room for anything like “almost fits”; a shifting crampon on steep snow slopes above High Camp can mean the end of one’s attempt, even if one is strong enough. It is the same with one’s gloves, goggles and clothes.

What the Climbing Team Manages

The released Pisang package comprises group ropes, ice screws, snow bars, tents, stoves and other high-altitude camping gear. The point is that the climber must not arrive in Kathmandu with 60 meters of rope because a packing list in general suggests bringing the climbing equipment. It is the responsibility of the team to manage the shared systems. What the climber must do is be capable of using personal equipment properly: harness, crampons, ascender, carabiners and ice axe.

Our Gear Check Has a Consequence

If there is no proper fixation of the boot with crampons, the wrong size of harness, gloves prevent rope handling, or eyewear is inappropriate for snow exposure – we will make sure the item is fixed or replaced prior to the climbing process.

We would rather lose time in Kathmandu than realize the problem at 5,400 m altitude.

The firm is already applying this operational separation of tasks for its other climbing products: the shared technical equipment is managed by the climbing team, and personal-fit gear – separately.

Accommodation From Kathmandu to Pisang Peak High Camp

The accommodation for this 13-day climb is distinctly in three phases: hotel in Kathmandu, mountain lodges during the approach, and tented accommodations after the climbing phase has started. The reason this is important is that comfort levels will decrease precisely when the altitude and exertion increase.

Kathmandu and the Approach Villages

Kathmandu is the rest and preparation phase, and thus you should expect normal hotel accommodation rather than expedition style accommodation. As the trek begins, the nights in Dharapani, Chame, and Upper Pisang will be spent in local teahouses or mountain lodges. They are normally very basic and functional, usually twin-share accommodation, with the warmth coming from the dining area.

Current operations of Pisang follow the same model.

What Changes at Pisang Peak Base Camp

Base Camp is where lodge-like expectations need to end. At around 4,380 m, accommodation turns into tents since the permanent infrastructure of teahouses is no longer the base for the climbing operation. Similarly to the arrangement at Pisang Peak, we employ expedition tents, sleeping mats and separate kitchen, dining, and toilet facilities. It does not matter if the tent feels “comfortable.” The question is if the camp provides climbers with a dry, full, rested and well-organised sleep before going up further.

High Camp Is Functional, Not Comfortable

High Camp at 5,400 m is the last sleeping point before the summit push. This is a tented climbing camp, not an additional night at a lodge. Likewise, current Pisang itineraries feature tents at High Camp. The space is tight, the temperature is dropping fast, and the goal of the night is clear: eat, organize gear, keep warm, and sleep before the summit push. We would prefer to give a truthful description of High Camp than to present it as “comfortable mountain accommodation.” At 5,400 m, the “comfortable accommodation” would mean a functioning camp – nothing else.

What Food and Drinking Water Are Available During Pisang Peak Climbing?

Food during the climb of Pisang Peak depends on the trail. For instance, up to the point of Upper Pisang, you will get the food according to the teahouse menus. On the other hand, when you arrive at the Base Camp and the High Camp, your food will be provided from the kitchen of the expedition.

Food in Dharapani, Chame and Upper Pisang

While doing the lodge-based trek, you should not expect any special mountain food but instead the teahouse menu. Common food choices are dal bhat, rice, noodles, soup, potatoes, pasta, eggs, Tibetan bread and breakfast meals. Presently, the Pisang operators use the same model as the teahouse menu before the Base Camp.

The food we shall choose will be the one that your body can easily digest. We will not test out a very heavy meal in the Upper Pisang, as it will involve climbing 1,000 vertical meters to Base Camp.

• Personal snacks should comprise:
• energy bars that you have used during training;
• dried fruit and nuts;
• chocolate or sweets that do not go bad at low temperatures;
• electrolyte packets;
• some foods that you will still eat even when your appetite diminishes.

Food at Pisang Peak Base Camp

At the Base Camp, the lodge menu stops. The meals are cooked by the camping kitchen staff, usually based on rice, dal, noodles, soups and similar high-energy foods that can be easily cooked at an altitude of 4,380 m. The current Pisang expedition describes the existence of a special kitchen at the Base Camp and High Camp instead of permanent teahouses. Variety of dishes is not the goal here. The goal is to provide enough carbohydrates, fluids and warm food to the climber before ascending to 5,400 m.

What Changes at High Camp?

The food at high camp should once again be more basic. The altitude at 5,400 m causes slower digestion, decreased appetite and an earlier start of the summit push. Some guiding companies serve simple or even freeze-dried food in high camp as it needs less cooking and is practical there. If a mountaineer is not able to eat a lot of food for dinner, he/she must eat smaller portions, soups, hot beverages and quick carbohydrates. To go on a long summit day under-supplied means creating a difficulty which no determination can help with afterward.

Drinking Water on the Approach

Tap or river water should not be presumed safe without further analysis.

When taking the lodge approach, boiling water is easily available, and water purification tablets or a filter are convenient as a backup system. Local untreated Pisang water sources usually recommend using treated or boiled water.

A reasonable daily goal commonly applied on the Pisang high-altitude itinerary is approximately 3–4 litres.

Water at Base Camp and High Camp

From the point when the path goes past the tea houses, water starts to become a camp issue. The kitchen crew has to make sure that the water is boiled or treated for consumption and food preparation. At High Camp in particular, one cannot expect to find a faucet next to the tent. When preparing for summit day, the bottles have to be filled up beforehand and kept from freezing. The perfect hydration system in Chame becomes an entirely useless one when the hose freezes at High Camp. This is why we consider drinking water to be climbing equipment, as well as food preparation: If you cannot drink it when you need it, it does not really matter how much water there is on the mountain.

What Knowledge Should You Have Before Climbing Pisang Peak?

First-timers to Pisang will not be expected to come equipped as mountaineers. First-timers will be expected to have knowledge of the systems that will attach them to the mountain once the angle of the ascent gets steeper above High Camp. Prior to the summit push, one must be able to accomplish the following:

• Properly place crampons on one’s own footwear. If they shift during practice, it must already be fixed prior to continuing the climb.
• Put on and properly check their harness without needing any help. All buckle placements and how to wear them should not still be perplexing at 5,400 meters.
• Ascending a fixed line using a Jumar. The upper western ridge of Pisang may slope around 45° where the efficiency of using a fixed line is important.
• Move through anchors without unintentionally unclipping one’s self from the anchor.
• Efficiently use an ice axe, including proper carrying and balancing on snow.
• Notice altitude degradation. It is not acceptable to hide your nausea, lack of coordination, or extreme exhaustion in an effort to make the summit.
• Handle your gloves, clothing, food, and water independently. Simple actions suddenly become very costly in terms of energy above 6,000m.
• Follow turnaround orders immediately. Nothing can override weather conditions, time constraints, or physical ability in making the summit.