Island Peak Climbing - 15 Days
Island Peak Climbing - 15 Days

Island Peak Climbing - 15 Days

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Trip at a Glance
Duration15 Days
Trip GradeStrenuous
CountryNepal
Maximum Altitude6189 M
Group Size2-10
StartsKathmandu
EndsKathmandu
ActivitiesTrekking and climbing
Best Timespring and Autumn

Island Peak, or Imja Tse (6,189m), is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal’s Khumbu region, renowned for its stunning scenery, accessible climbing experience, and sense of accomplishment. Ideal for adventurers looking to experience high-altitude climbing, Island Peak is often considered a stepping stone for future expeditions to more technical peaks.

Island Peak, named by Eric Shipton due to its appearance as an island in a sea of ice, offers a dramatic setting amidst the high Himalayan peaks. Although classified as a trekking peak, Island Peak provides real mountaineering challenges, making it a rewarding climb for trekkers who have some experience at high altitudes and are looking to develop their technical climbing skills. 

The peak is commonly climbed as an add-on to the classic Everest Base Camp Trek, making it accessible and popular among trekkers seeking an achievable yet thrilling summit experience.

The journey typically begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by a trek through iconic Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche. After reaching Chhukung (4,730m), the trail branches off toward Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m). Trekkers acclimatize along the way, often spending additional days at higher villages to ensure their bodies adjust to the altitude.

The summit day begins pre-dawn, as climbers make their way through rocky ridges, snowy slopes, and glacier crossings. After navigating crevasses with fixed ropes, climbers reach the challenging summit ridge, where they use ice axes and crampons to ascend the final section. The climb is steep and technical, but the summit rewards climbers with panoramic views of the Everest region, including Lhotse, Makalu, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam.

 From Island Peak’s summit, climbers are rewarded with expansive views of the Everest region, including towering giants like Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam. The feeling of standing atop the peak with these colossal mountains surrounding you is unforgettable and adds immense satisfaction to the climb.

Although classified as a trekking peak, Island Peak offers several technical sections, particularly the glacier crossings, crevasse navigation, and a steep 100-meter headwall leading to the summit. Using ropes, crampons, and ice axes, climbers gain practical experience with basic mountaineering techniques, making it an ideal peak for those looking to gain skills for more advanced climbs.

The route to Island Peak takes trekkers through traditional Sherpa villages, including Namche Bazaar and Tengboche, where trekkers can experience Sherpa culture, hospitality, and spirituality. Tengboche Monastery, one of the region’s most significant monasteries, offers a spiritual pause amidst the rugged landscapes, enriching the overall journey.

The trek to Island Peak is designed to allow climbers ample time to acclimatize, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable climb. Trekkers stay in higher villages like Dingboche and Chhukung to acclimatize gradually, which reduces the risk of altitude sickness and prepares climbers physically and mentally for the high-altitude challenges of the climb.

Many climbers choose to combine Island Peak with a trek to Everest Base Camp, creating a once-in-a-lifetime experience that includes a visit to the world’s highest mountain base camp. This combination not only adds an iconic element to the trip but also allows for additional acclimatization and an even deeper exploration of the Everest region.

The best seasons for Island Peak climbing are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). These periods offer stable weather, clear skies, and milder temperatures, making the climb safer and more enjoyable. Spring is especially beautiful, with blooming rhododendrons along the trails, while autumn offers clear post-monsoon views.

Climbing Island Peak requires a good level of fitness and some basic mountaineering skills. While it’s accessible to beginners with some high-altitude trekking experience, previous use of crampons, ropes, and ice axes is beneficial. Training in aerobics, strength, and endurance is recommended for a successful climb.

Island Peak Climbing is an ideal adventure for those seeking a mix of trekking and mountaineering in the Himalayas. The technical challenges, cultural richness of Sherpa villages, and awe-inspiring mountain views make Island Peak an exceptional experience. With its accessibility, moderate difficulty, and unforgettable scenery, Island Peak serves as a memorable climb and a gateway to high-altitude mountaineering.

Highlights

  • Summit Island Peak (6,189m), is one of Nepal's most famous trekking peaks.
  • Enjoy breathtaking panoramic vistas of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.
  • Experience the thrill of technical climbing on snow and ice slopes.
  • Explore Sherpa villages and monasteries along the trekking route.
  • Receive expert guidance from experienced climbing guides and support staff.
  • Challenge yourself and achieve a significant mountaineering milestone.
  • Trek through stunning landscapes of the Everest region, including rhododendron forests and high-altitude valleys.
  • Create lifelong memories amidst the awe-inspiring beauty of the Himalayas.
Itinerary
Trip PlanExpand all

Take an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, a thrilling and scenic experience. Upon arrival in Lukla, begin the trek to Phakding. Descend from Lukla through the Dudh Koshi Valley, following the well-marked trail. Pass through small Sherpa villages, prayer wheels, and suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags. Enjoy views of the Dudh Koshi River and surrounding green hillsides along the way.Arrive in Phakding, a charming village nestled along the riverbank, by late afternoon. Overnight stay in Phakding, where you can rest and acclimatize.

Max Altitude: 2610m Meals: Breakfast, lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 20-30minute (Flight),3-4hoursDistance: 138km,8km

Depart Phakding after breakfast, following the trail along the Dudh Koshi River. Cross several suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags. Ascend gradually through pine forests, passing through small Sherpa villages like Monjo. Enter Sagarmatha National Park at the Monjo checkpoint, where permits are checked. Continue trekking uphill, with occasional steep sections, until you reach Namche Bazaar. Enjoy stunning views of Everest and other Himalayan peaks along the way. Overnight stay in Namche Bazaar.

Max Altitude: 3440m Meals: Breakfast, lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 5-7hoursDistance: 10km

Take a short hike to Everest View Hotel, one of the highest hotels in the world, for stunning panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Explore the charming streets of Namche Bazaar, visiting local shops, bakeries, and the bustling market. Visit the Sherpa Culture Museum and learn about the local culture, history, and mountaineering heritage of the Everest region.. Rest and relax, taking advantage of the slower pace of the day to allow your body to adjust to the altitude.

Depart Namche Bazaar after breakfast, following the trail uphill. Enjoy panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam along the way. Pass through small villages and yak pastures, with occasional encounters with local Sherpas and their livestock. Trek through rhododendron and pine forests, immersing yourself in the natural beauty of the Himalayas. Arrive at Tengboche, home to the famous Tengboche Monastery. Overnight stay in Tengboche, where you can explore the monastery and enjoy breathtaking mountain views.

Max Altitude: 3860m Meals: Breakfast, lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 5-6hoursDistance: 10-12km

Depart Tengboche after breakfast, descending through rhododendron and pine forests. Cross the Imja Khola River and ascend gradually towards Dingboche. Pass through picturesque villages and yak grazing pastures along the way. Enjoy stunning views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and other Himalayan peaks. Arrive in Dingboche, a scenic village nestled in the Khumbu Valley. Overnight stay in Dingboche, where you can rest and acclimatize before continuing your journey

Max Altitude: 4410m Meals: Breakfast, lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 4-5hoursDistance: 9-10km

Depart Dingboche after breakfast, following the trail towards Chhukung. Ascend gradually through the Imja Valley, with views of towering peaks such as Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Pass through yak pastures and stone-walled fields as you trek towards Chhukung. Enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers. Arrive in Chhukung, a small settlement located at the base of Chhukung Ri and near the base camp for Island Peak. Overnight stay in Chhukung.

Max Altitude: 4730m Meals: Breakfast, lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 2-3hoursDistance: 6-7km

Start the day with a leisurely breakfast at your lodge in Chhukung. Take short walks around the village or along nearby trails to maintain your activity level without exerting too much energy. Enjoy panoramic views of surrounding peaks, including Ama Dablam and Island Peak, from viewpoints around Chhukung. Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water and herbal teas to help with acclimatization.

Depart Chhukung after breakfast, following the trail towards Island Peak Base Camp. Ascend gradually along the Imja Valley, with stunning views of glaciated peaks and rocky terrain. Pass through yak pastures and moraines as you make your way towards Island Peak. Reach Island Peak Base Camp, situated at the foot of the mountain, by late afternoon. Overnight stay at Island Peak Base Camp, where you'll rest and finalize preparations for the ascent.

Max Altitude: 5100m Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 4-6hoursDistance: 5-6km

Ascend steeply towards the summit of Island Peak, following the fixed ropes and guided by your experienced climbing guide. Navigate through rocky terrain, snow slopes, and possibly crevasses as you make your way to the summit. Reach the summit of Island Peak, where you'll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. Overnight stay in Chhukung, where you can rest and celebrate your successful summit of Island Peak.

Max Altitude: 6189m Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 10-12hoursDistance: 11km

Use the extra day as a buffer in case of delays due to weather, route conditions, or personal factors. Spend the day resting and acclimatizing at Island Peak Base Camp, allowing your body to adjust to the altitude before the summit push. Review climbing techniques and safety procedures with your guide to ensure preparedness for the ascent. Monitor weather forecasts and wait for a suitable window of good weather before attempting the summit ascent.

Depart Chhukung after breakfast, descending through the Imja Valley. Cross the Imja Khola River and ascend gradually towards Dingboche. Enjoy panoramic views of Ama Dablam and other peaks along the way. Pass through Pangboche, one of the oldest Sherpa villages in the region, known for its ancient monastery. Continue trekking to Tengboche, ascending through rhododendron and pine forests. Arrive in Tengboche, home to the famous Tengboche Monastery with stunning views of Everest, Ama Dablam, and other peaks. Overnight stay in Tengboche.

Max Altitude: 3860m Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 6-8hoursDistance: 12-14km

Depart Tengboche after breakfast, descending through rhododendron and pine forests. Cross the Dudh Koshi River and ascend gradually towards Namche Bazaar. Enjoy panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and other peaks along the way. Pass through villages like Phunki Tenga and Sanasa, where you can stop for refreshments. Continue trekking to Namche Bazaar, ascending steeply towards the town. Arrive in Namche Bazaar, the bustling Sherpa town and commercial hub of the Khumbu region. Overnight stay in Namche Bazaar, where you can explore the market, relax, and enjoy the amenities of the town.

Max Altitude: 3440m Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 5-6hoursDistance: 9-11km

Depart Namche Bazaar after breakfast, descending through the Dudh Koshi River Valley. Cross several suspension bridges and pass through villages like Phakding and Monjo. Enjoy scenic views of the Himalayas and lush green hillsides along the way. Ascend gradually towards Lukla, retracing your steps along the trail. Overnight stay in Lukla, where you can celebrate the completion of your trek and prepare for your flight back to Kathmandu.

Max Altitude: 2860m Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, DinnerAccommodation: LodgeDuration: 6-8hoursDistance: 13-15km

Wake up early and have breakfast at your lodge in Lukla. Head to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, where you'll check in for your flight to Kathmandu. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Himalayas during the flight, weather permitting. Land at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, Transfer to your hotel in Kathmandu and check in. Spend the rest of the day relaxing, shopping for souvenirs, or exploring the vibrant streets of Kathmandu. Overnight stay in Kathmandu.

Max Altitude: 1400m Meals: Breakfast, Farewell DinnerAccommodation: HotelDuration: 30minute(Flight)Distance: 138km

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Cost Details
Includes
  • All arrival and departure transportation airport / hotel / airport.
  • Three Star (Tourist Standard) hotel in Kathmandu with bed / breakfast basis.
  • A guide who can speak English and government licensed.
  • Climbing certified Sherpa for climbing
  • Porter (2 clients: 1 porter).
  • Food in Trekking (B-L-D).
  • Lodge accommodation during trekking.
  • Applicable TIMS (Trekking Information Management Systems) card/Local permit
  • National Park permit for Sagarmatha national park
  • Domestic airfare as per the itinerary Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu and trips briefing with full information and reconfirmation of your international air tickets also.
  • Full board meals (B-L-D) in tent in climbing period, climbing equipment if necessary.
  • Necessary camping equipment like dining tent. clients tent, toilet tent, kitchen utensils etc.
  • Service of trekking, climbing guide and porter daily wages-medical insurance, meals, and transportation allowance.
  • Welcome or Farewell dinner in Kathmandu at authentic Nepalese restaurant with cultural programs.
  • Note: We strongly advise you to take out personal travel insurance.
Excludes
  • Nepal Visa-International airfare-personal travel / medical insurance.
  • Drinks items (soft & hard), personal expenses.
  • Emergency evacuation by any means of transportation including Heli services and personal medical kit.
  • Tips for guide, climbing Sherpa and porter.
  • Early return from the trip due to personal / medical problem in this case clients should bear his / her own expenses on return from trek and in Kathmandu including expenses of accompanying guide / porters.
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FAQs

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular trekking peak located in the Everest region of Nepal. Standing at 6,189 meters (20,305 feet) above sea level, it offers an accessible yet challenging climb for mountaineers.

While previous climbing experience is beneficial, it's not mandatory. However, participants should have a good level of physical fitness and be comfortable trekking at high altitudes.

The best time to climb Island Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season from March to May and the post-monsoon (autumn) season from September to November. These months typically offer stable weather and clear skies, ideal for climbing.

The duration of the Island Peak climbing expedition varies depending on the chosen itinerary. Typically, it takes around 16 to 20 days, including acclimatization days, trekking to base camp, and summiting the peak.

Yes, climbers need to obtain a climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to climb Island Peak. Additionally, a Sagarmatha National Park entry permit is required as the peak lies within the national park.

Island Peak is considered a moderately difficult climb. The ascent involves some technical sections, including fixed ropes, glacier travel, and steep snow and ice slopes. Proper acclimatization and basic mountaineering skills are essential for a successful summit.

While it's possible to climb Island Peak independently, most climbers opt to join a guided expedition led by experienced climbing guides. Guides provide logistical support, route guidance, safety equipment, and ensure proper acclimatization.

Climbers need a range of mountaineering equipment, including crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, ropes, and appropriate clothing for cold and high-altitude conditions. It's essential to have proper gear and clothing to stay safe and comfortable during the climb.

Like any high-altitude mountaineering activity, climbing Island Peak carries inherent risks, including altitude sickness, avalanches, crevasses, and adverse weather conditions. Proper preparation, acclimatization, and adherence to safety protocols can mitigate these risks.

The summit of Island Peak offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. Climbers typically spend some time at the summit, celebrating their achievement and capturing photos before beginning the descent

During the Island Peak climbing expedition, accommodation and food options are primarily available in teahouses along the trekking route leading to the base camp and in tents at higher elevations closer to the summit. Here's what you can expect in terms of accommodation and food options during an Island Peak climbing expedition:

Along the trekking route to Island Peak Base Camp, there are numerous teahouses and lodges in villages such as Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and Chukhung. These Lodges offer basic but comfortable accommodation with amenities such as twin or dormitory-style rooms, shared bathrooms (often squat toilets), and dining areas.

Teahouses typically provide meals such as dal bhat (rice with lentil soup and vegetables), noodles, pasta, soups, bread, eggs, and hot beverages like tea and coffee. The food is freshly prepared, hearty, and designed to provide energy for trekking.

At Island Peak Base Camp, climbers typically stay in tents provided by the expedition operator. These are basic camping tents equipped with sleeping bags and sleeping mats. Kitchen and dining tents are set up for meals, and toilet facilities may be available in the form of portable toilets or designated areas.

Meals at the base camp are usually prepared by the expedition's cook team, who offer a variety of dishes to meet climbers' dietary needs and preferences.

As climbers ascend higher towards the summit of Island Peak, they may stay at a high camp located closer to the summit. Accommodation at high camp is typically in tents, similar to those at the base camp, but with even more basic facilities due to the higher altitude and harsher conditions.

Meals at high camp are simple and focused on providing essential nutrition and energy for the Island Peak climbing.

Climbing Island Peak (Imja Tse) in Nepal is an exciting adventure that requires careful preparation and the right gear. Here's a comprehensive packing list to help you get ready for the climb:

Clothing

  • Base Layers
  • Moisture-wicking long-sleeve shirts
  • Moisture-wicking underwear
  • Thermal tops and bottoms

Insulating Layers

  • Fleece jacket or vest
  • Down jacket (with a hood)

Outer Layers

  • Waterproof and windproof jacket (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Waterproof and windproof pants

Trekking Clothes

  • Lightweight trekking pants
  • Shorts
  • T-shirts
  • Fleece or wool sweater
  • Headwear
  • Warm hat (fleece or wool)
  • Sun hat or cap
  • Buff or neck gaiter
  • Balaclava
  • Gloves
  • Lightweight gloves (liners)
  • Insulated gloves
  • Waterproof gloves or mittens

Footwear

  • Mountaineering boots (double boots recommended for higher altitudes)
  • Comfortable trekking boots
  • Camp shoes or sandals
  • Gaiters
  • Warm socks (wool or synthetic)
  • Liner socks
  • Climbing Gear

Technical Equipment

  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe
  • Ascender (jumar)
  • Carabiners (lockable and non-lockable)
  • Slings or quickdraws
  • Belay device

Other Climbing Gear

  • Trekking poles
  • Climbing rope (if not provided by the guide)
  • Camping and Sleeping Gear
  • Sleeping Bag
  • Sleeping bag rated for -20°C to -30°C
  • Sleeping bag liner for extra warmth
  • Sleeping Mat
  • Insulated sleeping pad
  • Camping Accessories
  • Lightweight tent (if not provided by the guide)
  • Stuff sacks for organizing gear

Personal Items

  • Backpacks
  • Large backpack (60-70L)
  • Daypack (20-30L)

Hydration

  • Hydration system (CamelBak or similar)
  • Water bottles (at least 2 liters total capacity)
  • Water purification tablets or filter

Nutrition

  • High-energy snacks (energy bars, nuts, dried fruit)
  • Electrolyte tablets or powder
  • Health and Hygiene
  • Personal first aid kit (including blister treatment)
  • Medications (personal prescriptions, altitude sickness meds like Diamox)
  • Sunscreen (SPF 50+)
  • Lip balm (SPF 30+)
  • Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, hand sanitizer)
  • Towel

Navigation and Electronics

  • Headlamp with extra batteries
  • Camera with extra batteries and memory cards
  • GPS device or smartphone with offline maps
  • Solar charger or power bank

Documentation

  • Passport (with necessary visas)
  • Insurance documents (including emergency evacuation coverage)
  • Permits and trekking/climbing passes
  • Cash (Nepalese Rupees) for tips and small purchases

Miscellaneous

  • Climbing Accessories
  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Snow goggles
  • Spare laces for boots
  • Repair kit (duct tape, sewing kit)
  • Comfort Items
  • Earplugs
  • Book or e-reader
  • Journal and pen

Ensure that you test and break in your gear before the trip, especially your boots and climbing equipment. It's also wise to check with your guide or trekking company for any additional recommendations or specific gear requirements.

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