Himlung Himal Expedition (7126M) in Spring and Autumn

As soon as you step outside the arrival hall of Tribhuvan, the first thing that greets you is the noise generated by honking horns, taxi drivers offering you their services, and flower garlands, among other things.

Our team will find you by holding your name at the exit of the airport. The ride to the Thamel area can take longer than expected because of the traffic. Nothing is planned for you except breakfast.

There are many travel companies that plan day one of their itinerary with many activities, including a welcome dinner, in order to appear generous. We don’t believe in that. After spending hours in a confined space, adventurers want to unwind and not attend fancy dinners and meetings.

Caution: Skip the long hike and big meal tonight. The water damage caused by the flight far outweighs any issues caused by altitude.

Dorje Sherpa or Bhupen or Santosh gives the briefing himself, and it can take a full two or three hours, not a rushed forty minutes. This briefing usually concerns the Nar Phu route village by village and describes the specifics of Himlung Mountain: its first ascent took place on October 3rd, 1992. It was made by Osamu Hanai, Akio Koizumi, and Nima Sherpa using the Northwest Ridge route, which is still popular nowadays and is considered Alpine PD+ graded and requires extensive glacier hikes and ropes on the steep parts. As part of the briefing, Dorje clearly emphasizes that the so-called technically feasible mountains are those where climbers get hurt, since their climbing seems easier and causes nothing but negligence. This is also why do not forget to check your equipment at the very end of the day before the start of the climbing.

Tip: bring anything you're uncertain about to this session! The shops in Kathmandu can often fix it for you that day, whereas in Koto and beyond they can't.

Following the Prithvi Highway is a journey through Trishuli and Marsyangdi, while the rice paddies take the place of city development. Besisahar is Lamjung’s district headquarters, the main town more concerned with being a working one than a tourist attraction.

Some travelers have managed to complete their trip in half a day to save on overnight accommodation. We, however, do not take this route.

While other places might have their own merits, the significant motive behind our choice of Besisahar is the fact that it is the first opportunity to spot people who are trying to mislead others about their fitness records at an early stage, so as to prevent it from developing into a rescue mission two weeks later in the Nar Valley.

This long drive is said to take around 6-8 hours depending on the condition of the roads, especially during the monsoon season (June-September), when landslide situations can stop the car unexpectedly.

This was the toughest day of driving, for sure. The jeep road hugs the cliffs of the Marsyangdi gorge, beyond Chame, the headquarters of the Manang district, with Annapurna II peeking through the clouds sometimes.

Koto is the middle checkpoint village to verify Nar-Phu area restricted permits physically. Dorje and the team verify these while you can relax. The whole great trekking team meets here: the porters, mules, kitchen crew, and all.

Dorje has a firm belief that no one can get the porters ready in advance or in other villages because he can’t allow them to remain idle on his payroll for as long as three days.

Climber's Note: Due to heavy snow and lots of rain in the preceding weeks, roads were washed out, and previously we started our trek from Chame (900m) instead of Koto; take into consideration the possibility during the monsoon shoulder season. For the trek, it's enough to bring along a 35L daypack, containing a spare shirt, small towel, rain jacket and pants, 2-3L of water and some snacks. It's vital to drink enough water to help your body acclimatize, even this early on.

The path suddenly vanishes, and the Nar Khola gorge engulfs us; steep rocky cliffs and the pines and junipers begin to diminish rapidly. Fewer groups approach here compared to the Annapurna Circuit; there are no tea houses along the trail, just a scattering of stone shepherd’s huts and endless silence interspersed with the sounds of the river. Dorje takes his leisurely pace and bluntly explains it: he has seen groups from other agencies race through Meta during an afternoon to accumulate a rest day later on in the journey and believes this swap is not beneficial for anyone since there is no significant difference between resting at this point and during the descent from the high camps.

Caution: This is the altitude that most climbers first start to notice - a slight headache or the onset of breathlessness on the hills. If it gets worse or leads to nausea, then this is not normal. Say something immediately.

Tip: Category B or C boots for the trek: don't carry anything heavier, as they are liable to cause blisters. Keep your massive 8000m boots for above base camp.

There is a small distance separating the two points, but the change in atmosphere adds to the description. The width of the valley decreases, while the flora gives way to shrubs. At this point, the climbers pass by the remains of what are said to be the ruins of the village abandoned centuries ago.

The distance is covered step by step, and Kyang is the place where many climbers have their first true conversation with Dorje. When climbers are alone, he asks how they are feeling, so that they will be able to speak their minds without worrying about their appearances in front of the rest.

As Dorje states, the group talks reveal certain symptoms, but the one-on-one conversation uncovers the truth about the person’s condition.

Climbers’ note: Kyang was destroyed during the earthquake of 2015 and was only rebuilt in the last couple of years.

To get to Phu Gaun, the most remote village on this route, one will cross a wobbly suspension bridge followed by a narrow gorge. The hamlet is surrounded by stone walls. As one approaches it, they will come across chortens and then will see an ancient gompa that guards barren houses built for winds and not for views.

Usually, it is on this day that climbers see the peak of Himlung for the first time. Dorje is quite adamant about his position on drone photography in this settlement, although it is legally permissible to take photographs.

Dorje doesn't consider it to be the right thing to do, so he is ready to lose a photo opportunity for the sake of keeping good relations with the village that he constantly visits with his team.

Tip: Some climbers go hiking to Gangbu (~4,800 m) in the afternoon. The climb is short, but worth doing because it offers the first real view of Himlung.

This day is not a day off for Dorje but a life-saving measure in his eyes. He adheres to the advice that when a healthy, strong-seeming group solicits him to forgo this one day for some extra time, he has turned down similar offers before. He has informed such groups that the people look and seem healthy at sea level, but that was not the case upon arriving at 4,900m two days later.

Others take advantage of the morning to walk through the stone-littered alleys of Phu, or undertake a gentle trek along the ridge that runs parallel to the village, with an altitude sufficient to begin the acclimatization process. The group's oxygen saturation levels are also measured at the start of the day.

Tip: Most people need to drink much more than they believe they do - 4 to 5 litres per day is a reasonable goal. Eating & drinking will be essential to avoid dehydration symptoms mistaken for altitude sickness.

You have moved beyond the last settlement; the landscape has taken on an unmistakably alpine character; the moraines, the scree, and the foot of the glaciers can be seen. There are great heights to conquer, but how to make this climb easier? You need to go step by step, using staging. The Base Camp is located on a rocky ledge beneath the peak of Himlung.

The base camp manager, Dorje, follows one rule: no one is allowed to ask about the climb until the camp has been established and the climbers have enjoyed dinner. He has seen many climbers make mistakes when they talk about the climbing preparation during hours of traveling to the camp, so he is ready to hold up the conversation for two hours rather than allow climbers to make wrong decisions.

According to some measurements, the Base Camp is a little less than 4,850m high, so expect about three days of stay in the camp before the climbing rotation starts. This is a good time for acclimatization before climbing.

Before climbing started, the expedition team went through puja, a ceremonial operation that involves bestowing blessings on climbers by monks from the Phu village.

This is the eleven-day block in which the expedition is transformed from a trek into a technical climb. It is based around just one principle - controlled, repeated exposure to altitude, with a gradual acclimatisation down each night - and what follows is a breakdown of exactly what this entails on a daily basis as it plays out on the route up Himlung's Northwest Ridge.

The Rotation Structure

Rather than pushing straight up towards the summit, climbers rotate between Base Camp (4,900m), Camp I and Camp II in an overlapping series of loops, gradually pushing higher and further each time before retreating down to Base Camp to rest and recover for a few days; a typical rotation would see a climber return to Base Camp after the first push up to Camp I, spend a few days resting at Base Camp and then push up the route again, this time to Camp II before returning to Base Camp once more.

These rotations are always dictated by the weather, with no two years likely to follow exactly the same pattern, and it is the combination of snowfall and crevasse conditions on the glacier that dictates how much rotation can take place in any given year.

What the Climbing Sherpa Team Is Doing Ahead of You

Whilst climbers rotate back down to Base Camp and spend a few days resting, the climbing Sherpa team work on the mountain in relative isolation, fixing ropes along the most crevassed and technical sections of the route, assessing their condition and working with the local ice conditions to make sure they are stable and safe.

This work goes on in the background to the rotations of the client group, but it is the most important task on the mountain, as it is what enables any rotation to take place at all; it is the progress made by these guides that determines how far any given rotation can get on any particular day, and is the first item of discussion during each morning's briefing.

Camp I and Camp II: What They're Actually Like

Camp I is located at the lower glacier and can be reached with moderate snow and ice condition and short sections along the route have fixed ropes. From here it is easier to go to Camp II which is more exposed and higher. As a rule, Camp II is typically colder and windier. The increased altitude means that the overall classification remains PD + but everything demands significantly more work and time.

Sleep at both camps is poor, even though the climbers were accustomed to a high altitude before the rotation. This is not a sign of concern, merely normal occurrence.

Health Monitoring Through the Block

Oxygen saturation, heart rate, and the entire condition of the camps over the entire period must be carefully monitored, the frequency is increasing together with the climbers’ move higher. It should be informed about symptoms that make it for guide to cease the rotation - the headache which can not be remitted by rest, water, and food, inability to coordinate movements or a cough getting worse and not better.

A Climber's Example: Camp Layout and Rotation in Practice

Although the altitudes of the camps vary from season to season and route to route, as a rough guide, they are as follows: Camp I – 5,450m on a small plateau; Camp II - approx. 6,000m on the glacier (some teams use an additional Camp 2.5 – 6,100m on the glacier a little further along the route), Camp III - 6,450m on the summit ridge where you get your first ever glimpse of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.

Apart from the normal toils of climbing at altitude, there are a number of features which are particularly hard or require extra caution. The crossing over the moraine from the Base Camp to Camp I is extremely strenuous, and the return journey from Camp I is riddled with loose rocks – better to keep to the side of the trail using the fixed ropes along the way. Just above Camp I lies the infamous “bottleneck”, a steepening of the path best negotiated on a knee-deep belly. A little below Camp III, another challenge awaits in the form of a short but steep wall of ice which requires the use of ascenders. Finally, the climb to the summit does not involve any technical difficulties.

The standard rotation is as follows: Rotation 1: Base Camp - Camp I (spend the night) - Camp II (spend the night; shed any unnecessary equipment such as mittens, dried food, base layers and gas)  - return to Base Camp for a well-deserved rest.

In practice, it is important to note that this rotation can often take longer than accounted for if bad weather means you have to delay your departure for the summit. Rotation 2 (the summit rotation): Base Camp - Camp I (spend the night) - Camp II (spend the night) – Camp III (spend the night) – push for the summit.

There is also the option of using the French Base Camp, situated beyond the moraine in a small clearing. However, due to the extra effort required to shift supplies from the French Base Camp to the actual Base Camp, it is rarely used.

Weather as the Real Variable

This phase is not necessarily solely about the time of year. Weather updates are monitored daily with satellite and regional meteorological sources, meaning the rotation can be cut short, delayed, or even prolonged by a day or two based on the wind speed and precipitation level at the high camp. Hence, it is important to note that Days 10-20 are referred to in the itinerary as a block rather than 11 fixed days. Indeed, the number of rotations is more decisive than the specific date of each rotation.

Caution: One of the most common mistakes committed by inexperienced climbers at the 7,000m level is correlating a rest day in Base Camp with inactivity. Remember that drinking enough water, eating on schedule, and moving lightly on such breaks is very significant, as it is not just lying idle that guarantees a successful subsequent rotation.

The summit opportunity arises after all the rotations have ended and the reliable forecast occurs. This usually includes several days advancing from Camp I and Camp II to the final camp and then a summit attempt which lasts approximately 8 to10 hours.

It is at this point that Dorje's very clear, repeated statement about this whole expedition comes into play. The decision to turn back must be made by the guides, not the clients, and he will not reverse his choice because of a disappointed client. He has stated clearly that he would rather receive an angry phone call from someone who did not make it to the top than the other type of phone call made to someone who did not make it to the summit, and whose family should be informed about that.

Descending down to Base Camp happens approximately 24-48 hours after summiting, provided the weather conditions are suitable.

Caution: More Himalayan accidents are caused by climbers' or guides' stubbornness past a safe turnaround time than by any other single factor. A non-summit is a competent outcome. The climb itself is the point.

Climber's note: Weather can delay an acclimated summit push; plan on a 4-5 am start to actually kick off at 9-10 am if the winds haven't died down overnight. Once on the move, budget 7 hours for the final push to the summit and 2 hours to get back down to high camp. Expect to spend another night at high camp before turning around and heading back down to Base Camp (some people prefer to break up the descent at Camp I instead of doing it all in one day).

Lesson learned: Cold toes and fingers on the summit push are entirely expected, even with good gear. Inadequate insulation (particularly legs and hands) is a common cause of this, so consider two pairs of socks (thin merino liner + thick wool), appropriate base layer, down pants over insulated pants, and proper 8000m boots as critical gear upgrades. Meanwhile, chemical hand and toe warmers are an essential item to pack, no matter how prepared you think you are.

The downward journey begins, and it is quicker than climbing up the mountain. There is no acclimatization necessary for the descent, but the legs are tired, and the backpack is heavier due to camp equipment. What took a whole day to climb is now done in less than a half-day descent.

Dorje has his own method of approaching the first day of descent: he deliberately slows the pace just like all the other operators, he has seen tired climbers being careless once they realize that the hardest part is behind them.

He believes that the mountain continues to be dangerous even after all the hardships are over, injuries during the descent in easy places are common in the industry, and he knows that being careful in this situation is not excessively cautious.

Tip: The emotional crash comes here, not at Base Camp, adrenaline dissipates once you start moving away from the mountain.

Note: You can descend some of the way to Ngawal (a tiny village between Kyang and Meta), not along the actual ascent route, before proceeding to Koto the following day.

We will travel back through the Nar Khola gorge, taking the same route we took earlier. Once we arrive at Koto, we can finally sleep in real beds and eat at a teahouse after weeks of no civilization, a small but hugely significant comfort during the last three weeks in a row.

The very first thing Dorje does is he starts to debrief every climber separately, rather than waiting until the team gets to Kathmandu after the news starts to fade. He makes it very clear that he wants to get very specific feedback, where he finds out what went well, what went badly, and what he should improve for the next people.

Tip: Don't push your pace on descent days, tired legs after a loose scree day cause more late-trip injuries than the morning ascent.

The car takes the group back down the gorge of the river Marsyangdi, and now they meet the same place in a completely different spirit and mood. Most climbers have only now started noticing the details they did not pay attention to while climbing up, the life of villages, the terraced fields and the size of the valley in which the ascent took place.

Dorje uses this day as a true rest day instead of a day to kill while waiting for the group members to arrive in Kathmandu. He understands that after being at altitudes higher than 3,500 meters for three weeks, a person cannot recover in the blink of an eye. So he doesn’t agree to shorten the duration of the trip to arrive sooner in Kathmandu and save one night spent in a hotel.

Caution: A point to note is that even going downhill can be a torment for those who are coping with altitude sickness.

Back on the Prithvi Highway and back into the chaos of Kathmandu, which is nearly unbearable after the previous month spent in the Nar-Phu valley. The hotel is checked into, a hot shower is taken, and finally the first proper rest occurs after the journey from Base Camp.

Some tour operators may plan celebratory dinners or shopping trips for the same night, but Dorje purposely does not for the same reason that day one will be calm, the body after spending a month at high altitude needs not a busy program, but some rest. He said he prefers that clients be rested for their free day tomorrow instead of a busy program for the night.

Tip: In Kathmandu, your appetite and sleep patterns might still be a little out of sync, this is a common post-expedition phenomenon, not anything to worry about.

A buffer day, partly because the flight schedules and moods of the mountain don't always agree on things that matter, and partly because many climbers take the opportunity to see a certificate awarded to them by Dorje and the team, or to do last-minute souvenir shopping in Thamel, or to get some proper sleep for the first time in weeks. In any case, that's the sort of day that Dorje's philosophy prefers to any other, if only because after three weeks of everyone crammed into the same tents, eating similar food and following the same schedule, most people would rather have an unscheduled break than another guided adventure. So the day begins and proceeds not according to any plan.

A transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport begins the process of getting these climbers out of the country, and the expedition comes to a close. Whether or not they've gotten to the summit, reached the ridge, or been turned back below the icefall, Dorje has one parting message for every one of his charges. He considers a well-executed turnaround to be a success in and of itself, because it means that all his clients have returned home safely, and he thinks that's a good message to carry with them wherever they go. It's not an easy standard to live up to, for him or for the guides he employs on Himlung, and this expedition is no different.